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    Features

    Anti-Aging: Beauty & Beyond

    With vanity as the motivator, consumers are adopting a more healthy, holistic view of aging in today's market.

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    Rebecca Wright09.01.08
    The notion of anti-aging used to conjure thoughts of old women slathering themselves with lotions in order to make their wrinkles disappear. Today the concept of anti-aging has evolved, and it concerns not only older women, but also consumers as young as 20. Even men are getting into the anti-aging game.

    According to Frank Assumma, director of marketing, Natural Health Science (NHS), Hoboken, NJ, the wider scope of anti-aging has a lot to do with how consumers currently view beauty. "The desire to look good has become extremely beneficial from a health standpoint," he explained. "This is because of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which represent the crux of anti-aging. These are not only responsible for wrinkles, but also heart disease, diabetes and even Alzheimer's."

    Scott Steinford, president, ZMC-USA, The Woodlands, TX, offered a similar point of view. "More people are recognizing that our bodies produce less of the nutrients necessary for optimum efficiency as we grow older. Overall, I believe the next generation of products will target energy, eye health, joint health and heart health, along with cognitive function," he said. "I also prefer the term 'healthy aging' vs. 'anti-aging' be­cause anti-aging has previous associations we are trying to move on from and doesn't fit with the goals consumers are trying to achieve these days."

    Market Targets & Trends



    Baby Boomers represent the largest consumer group for anti-aging products by virtue of their size and spending power. However, times are changing, and consumers in their 20s and 30s are becoming more interested in making sure they can keep not only wrinkles, but also health issues such as memory decline and joint problems in check in the years to come.

    "We don't necessarily see a distinction between consumer segments," said Joe Kuncewitch, national sales manager, Fuji Health Science, Burlington, NJ, "The market for anti-aging products includes everyone from 18 to 80. It's a venerable gold mine now for those companies that use the finest ingredients to produce the best possible products. We see quality being the make-or-break distinction among consumer segments."

    Caroline Negre, RHC product manager, Rousselot, Courbevoie, France, expanded on the concept of healthy aging. "Aging populations are looking to maintain vitality and fight disease through 'functional' products that facilitate 'healthy aging'-as the global population continues to age, new functional products offering specific and targeted antidotes to age-related ailments continue to enter the market," she said. "Furthermore, there is a new level of spirit and em­powerment among older people-they want to stay active and engaged, mentally, physically and socially for as long as possible."

    Younger consumers in contrast, Ms. Negre pointed out, are searching for ways to maintain their appearance and mitigate any effects of aging before they occur.

    Ms. Negre believes there are five key elements responsible for the recent surge in demand for anti-aging products. These include:

    • The trend toward overall health;

    • An aging population concerned with long-term health and beauty;

    • Increasingly busy consumers who demand immediate benefits;

    • Technological advancements that have led to more efficacious and im­proved taste formulations; and

    • A shift in marketing focus toward emphasis on the positive, plus stricter regulations.

    According to Ms. Negre, a quarter of the population will be over 60 by 2020. This demographic shift, she said, will produce products that exploit the following trends: beauty from within (eat good to look good); anti-aging concerns (skin aging and health-related disease such as osteoporosis and ar­thritis); and the desire to use natural and clean label products.

    Denise Elias-Costrini, global marketing manager, Amerchol, Piscataway, NJ, a business unit of Dow Chemical Company, also discussed the move toward natural ingredients. "Recently, some of the trends we've noticed in the anti-aging market include the use of natural ingredients, which continue to gain popularity and mainstream acceptance," she commented, ad­ding, "Mass market brands are also continuing to be­come more sophisticated and expensive, as they seek to deliver the same types of benefits through applications that had previously been solely associated with prestige or doctor brands, such as at-home microdermabrasion kits."

    As awareness of the multiple benefits of good nutrition grows, Caroline Brons, senior marketing manager, Functional Foods Marketing Group, DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., Parsippany, NJ, said consumers will be able to connect the general health benefits of ingestible nutrients, such as vitamins and antioxidants, with the notion that consuming these type of nutrients can be good for the skin too.

    She maintains that consumers' desire to want to look and feel good is becoming increasingly important in our society. "Consumers are trying to prevent and minimize the effects of aging in many different ways," she said, adding, "This is why, in addition to working with topical products, consumers are now also turning to 'ingestible' beauty products as a way of reinforcing their already existing topical beauty regimen."

    But it's not only about those trying to arrive at their golden years gracefully. While Ms. Brons says women over 35 remain the primary target group for anti-aging products, other demographics are coming into play. "Overall, women 35 and older are the primary target group. However, there are other market segmentations to consider," she said. "Manufacturers are targeting a wide range of age groups with different beauty products and messages, ranging from 'preventative' for the younger population, to 'treatment and repair' and 'reduce the signs of aging' types of messages for the more mature segment of the population."

    She said there are market examples of skin care products and supplements geared toward teens. "This is an important group," she said, "especially since it is at this age that the long-term structural health of the skin is determined."

    NHS' Mr. Assumma also believes consumers are addressing skin health at younger ages. "Men and women alike are starting to take better care of their skin much earlier. That was unheard of for younger consumers-and especially men-10 years ago because the market was more fo­cused on wrinkles and women over 50."

    About men specifically, Ms. Negre commented, "Re­cent evidence shows a growing concern for external well-being and anti-aging occurring among men. As Baby Boomer men age, they are increasingly worried about hair loss and skin care. But this trend is not just limited to the Baby Boomers. Indeed, younger men are also showing a higher level of interest in their appearance."

    Anti-Aging Business Booming Among Boomers



    Baby Boomers remain the moneymaking demographic for anti-aging products. According to a recent report from the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI), Harleysville, PA, 75% of Baby Boomers believe the best years are ahead of them. In this vein, they are looking for solutions that cater to concerns like lack of energy, physical health, memory and emotional health.

    NMI, through its Healthy Aging/ Boomer Database, claims Baby Boomers see supplements as a primary way to promote healthy aging (78%) compared to taking Rx medications (38%). The problem is nearly three-quarters of Boomers say there is too much conflicting information about what supplements they should take. In order for the high interest in supplements to translate into product purchases and long-term market success, there must be an educational component involved here.

    Baby Boomers are also interested in consuming more nutrient-rich foods. In fact, NMI identifies this group as the one most likely to use a functional food to manage a health condition. Some of the ingredients they would like to see in these products include more fiber, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, whole grains, calcium and healthy fats/oils. They are also seeking ingredients that can help them balance their blood sugar levels.

    More than two-thirds of Boomers re­gard energy as a high priority. Despite this, NMI points out, less than a third of them use energy bars and only 12% use energy beverages. NMI believes this need, as it pertains to Boomers, has been completely overlooked, particularly by functional beverage companies. However, as the meaning of energy evolves, it is likely a different kind of energy will emerge that will be better suited for this population.

    Stress/anxiety seems to be the common denominator when it comes Boomers' lack of energy and memory issues. In fact, almost three-quarters of Boomers blame stress and anxiety for depleting their energy levels, while 62% believe stress and anxiety are responsible for their memory problems. Overall, nearly 80% feel relieving their stress would increase their quality of life.

    Finally, Boomers represent the most progressive group in terms of making the connection between good health and appearance. NMI claims a whopping 90% of Boomers "agree that the food and supplements they consume have an effect on their appearance." As a result, NMI believes Boomers represent the prime target for "beauty from within" messages.

    Exploring Anti-Aging Applications



    Scientifically speaking, Sabinsa Corporation, Piscataway, NJ, claims oxidative stress resulting from free radical pathology is implicated in the aging process. "Vital components of the cell such as the mitochondria (the energy centers), functional proteins, lipids and DNA are damaged by free radicals," the company states. "Cross linking and glycation of connective tissue proteins, such as collagen, results in the formation of advanced glycation end products or AGEs, which accumulate with age and induce stiffening of cartilage and the extracellular matrix, resulting in cataracts in the eyes and arthritis in the joints."

    The good news is, according to Sabinsa, recent scientific evidence validates the supportive role of dietary interventions in healthy aging and longevity. Specifically, it believes in nutrients that supplement dietary sources; improve resistance to oxidative stress; enhance the quality of life during aging; and potentially contribute to increased lifespan. This includes phytonutrients with adaptogenic properties, probiotics and micronutrients.

    R.V. Venkatesh, managing director, Gencor, Anaheim, CA, also believes consumers should take a multi-functional approach to anti-aging, with emphasis on decreasing oxidation and hormonal levels associated with aging. Right now, he says, antioxidants and hormone boosters like DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) seem to be the hottest products in this segment. "One good product which naturally elevates free testosterone levels is our Testofen product, which has been shown to in­crease free testosterone levels significantly within human physiological limits," he said.

    Sabinsa highly regards the antioxidant effects of curcuminoids combined with their known inhibitory effects on cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) as useful in anti-aging formulations, as well as in topical formulations designed to maintain general skin health and integrity.

    Because oxidative stress and inflammation are major players in the aging process, Sabinsa says the anti-inflammatory role of curcuminoids is well established. "Curcuminoids have been shown to inhibit nuclear factor kappaB (NFκB) a transcription factor that triggers inflammatory mediators. NFκB has been implicated in a variety of chronic disease conditions ranging from cardiovascular diseases to cancer," the company said, adding, "A recent study postulates that curcumin can potentially slow down the aging process and can therefore potentially delay senescence and the onset or progression of many age-related diseases."

    Adding her thoughts from a topical perspective, Kathy Maurer, senior marketing manager, Personal Care, DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., said, "The cosmetics market is seeing growth in products that claim anti-aging, especially the premium companies like Beiersdorf with their Nivea line that promotes awareness through products that claim to provide anti-wrinkle, skin firming, reduction of dark circles and puffiness around the eyes. In the sun care area, self tanners only make up about 20% of the market, but this segment is growing fast due to consumer awareness of the sun and the effects it has on damaging and aging the skin."

    DSM's Ms. Brons says many companies are taking their anti-aging nutrients to the beverage market. "Product launches in 'beauty from within' are taking place in the beverage segment. A beauty beverage nicely combines two beauty aspects-that of 'hydration' inherent to the beverage itself and that of the skin nutrients that are in it."

    Ms. Brons continued, "The dairy segment is also coming up with a variety of new skin-related products in the form of yogurt-based drinks and smoothies with skin health benefits.

    The idea of combining a topical routine with a daily oral supplementation routine is also being explored. "Another interesting development is the launch of day and nighttime formulas, where, for example, the daytime formula provides UV protection from the sun and the nighttime formula provides a range of nutrients necessary for skin cell regeneration," Ms. Brons said. "Another trend is that of anti-aging dietary supplements being added to large, well-known personal care product lines."

    NHS' Mr. Assumma also believes in developing "systems" for anti-aging. To him, it makes sense to take multiple products at different times during the day to ward off the effects of aging. "Soon you will see many product combinations-regimens that include a topical and oral solution for health and beauty needs," he said.

    Similarly, Ms. Maurer said, the market may witness more personal care products sold in kits. For example, a kit could include a cleanser, toner, moisturizer and exfoliator. "The best thing about kits is they are user-friendly and take the guesswork out of what works best for consumers," she said. "Claims around kits include using the products together to provide maximum benefits from your skin care products."

    At Kyowa Hakko, New York, NY, the company continues to work on exploiting the antioxidant angle. "We are taking a strong leadership role in explaining the benefits of glutathione to retailers and consumers in a simple, direct and understandable way," said Karen Todd, director of marketing, Kyowa Hakko. "Glutathione is a central component of the body's defense mechanisms required for health. Kyowa Setria glutathione will be promoted as the ultimate way to 'balance your defenses.' The health benefits of glutathione in­clude antioxidant protection, detoxification, immune health and overall anti-aging effects."

    As the body's "master antioxidant," Ms. Todd says glutathione helps bolster the body's fight against free radicals and eliminate toxins. "Research shows that cell glutathione blood levels de­crease as we age and in association with disease risk, it is 'a must have' for any Baby Boomer or anyone whose body is under stress."

    For the future, Rousselot's Ms. Negre feels there are several long-term developments companies must keep in mind when addressing anti-aging consumers. "First, be conscious of consumers demanding measurable benefits from functional products that are directed towards anti-aging health concerns. Second, despite the many innovative nutrient delivery systems developed for use as functional health products, functional versions of staple foods and beverages will drive growth," she said. "Lastly, aging consumers demanding anti-aging products with visible benefits will create a major trend toward functional health products with beauty benefits."
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