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    Features

    Clean Beauty: Is the Market Ready for a Makeover?

    Less is more for consumers who have grown weary of questionable chemicals and long ingredient lists.

    Clean Beauty: Is the Market Ready for a Makeover?
    stock.adobe.com/Rido
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    By Sean Moloughney, Editor09.03.24
    There’s been a marked shift in focus among consumers and health advocates from “lifespan” to “healthspan,” which emphasizes not just total years of life, but quality of life throughout one’s time. The goal of maintaining physical health, mental sharpness, and overall wellbeing for as many years as possible is intuitively relatable.

    Attention to healthspan and aging well is leading consumers up and down the age spectrum to take more agency over their health, incorporating good nutrition, exercise, beauty products, and other lifestyle elements that can help them meet their health, fitness, and wellness goals.

    “Positive action to prevent health concerns before they arise is driving consumers to products that meet their personal wellbeing needs,” noted Innova Market Insights, which included “Prioritizing Prevention” in its top 10 trends for 2024. In fact, 59% of consumers in the U.S. and Canada find healthy aging very important.

    Meanwhile, more than half (52%) of consumers in the U.S. and Canada say honesty and transparency in ingredients are important values in their diets, according to Innova. Brands can feed into positive consumer attitudes toward key ingredients by promoting those star elements and simplifying formulations, the firm said.

    As inflation and global economic concerns persist, consumers are also looking for relief and value. More than 80% of consumers perceive that food prices have increased over the last 12 months, according to a May 2024 report from Purdue University. 

    While food is among the top categories affected by inflation, beauty products haven’t been immune.

    Especially with supply chain and transportation costs on the rise again, brands have been challenged to balance affordability, value, and a great user experience.

    In the first half of 2024, the U.S. prestige beauty market grew by 8% to $15.3 billion, while sales at mass merchants held flat, according to Circana. Growth drivers indicate consumers are seeking “elevated value.”

    Beauty as Currency

    Beauty is a vibrant market of cosmetics, personal care products, and nutritional supplements, noted Angie Rimel, marketing communications manager, GELITA, manufacturer of gelatin and collagen peptides.

    “Regardless of the sector within the beauty space, there are a few prevailing consumer attitudes,” she noted. “Consumers have become less accepting of unrealistic beauty standards often portrayed in the media. Instead, they are seeking more realistic experiences that represent their individual definitions of beauty.”

    Beauty is not only a topic for women, Rimel added. “Men have become more comfortable taking care of their appearance. The demand for beauty solutions for men continues to increase.”

    Beauty can also be seen as a new form currency for overall health and wellbeing, representing balance in health, stress, and self-care, she noted.

    Consumers increasingly view beauty as a holistic experience that involves both external and internal care, agreed Sébastien Bornet, vice president of global sales and marketing, Horphag Research, exclusive worldwide supplier of Pycnogenol French maritime pine bark extract.

    “When it comes to ingestible beauty products, (consumers) are seeking scientifically-backed ingredients that offer real benefits for skin, hair, and nails,” he added. “Key areas of interest include products with high-quality collagen, essential vitamins, and antioxidants. Beyond efficacy, there is a strong demand for products that adhere to clean beauty standards.”

    Clean Beauty on the Move

    What does “clean beauty” mean in today’s hyper-evolving market?

    Clean beauty typically emphasizes the use of safe, non-toxic, ethically sourced ingredients. The movement has gained traction as consumers have become more skeptical of certain chemicals in traditional beauty products and demand grows for sustainable and ethical options.

    Key principles of clean beauty include ingredient transparency and avoiding chemicals like parabens, phthalates, sulfates, and certain synthetic fragrances.

    Actress Blake Lively debuted her Blake Brown brand of shampoos, masks, and styling products in August.

    “Clean beauty has evolved significantly in recent years,” according to Bornet. “It’s a holistic approach to beauty that prioritizes transparency. Today, clean beauty encompasses a broader range of values, including ethically sourced ingredients.”

    Consumers are demanding more in beauty supplements, he added. “The market has been further fueled by a shifting consumer mindset towards cleaner and healthier solutions. Consumers are more aware than ever of the potential side effects associated with conventional cosmetic products as a result of increased online conversations around clean beauty. The use of botanical and natural ingredients adds to their appeal, as they are perceived as cleaner alternatives to traditional cosmetics.”

    Consumers overall are becoming more discerning, said Rimel. “Aside from naturalness they are looking for scientific substantiation. They are looking for solutions to the most pesky problems such as wrinkles, nail ridges, and cellulite appearance, and for this they are looking for maximum benefits.”

    When consumers choose ingredients these days they also consider the sustainability of the product, she added. “Here, collagen peptides, especially those ingredients with low dosing (such as VERISOL) allow for less storage, less shipping, but also less packaging for both the supplier and the manufacturer of the products.”

    Evidence-based ingredients “support the basic building blocks of healthy beauty,” said Bornet, “and are in good position in a market where more educated consumers are driving growth. Validation from peer-reviewed and published research is a significant factor. Our flagship ingredient, Pycnogenol French maritime pine bark extract is one of the leading branded ingredients supported by a vast catalog of research providing important benefits for beauty including skin and hair health, but also offers extensive natural health benefits for the entire body.”

    Premium Attributes

    One hallmark of premiumization in beauty and personal care, according to Circana, is the use of superior formulations and innovative ingredients. Premium products often boast high-quality, scientifically advanced ingredients that promise exceptional results.

    Balancing a premium feel and value, actress Blake Lively in August debuted her Blake Brown brand of shampoos, masks, and styling products. “I wanted something that was more affordable but had the same salon/red carpet performance,” she wrote in an announcement on Instagram. “Turns out highest quality is most expensive, who knew?? There’s a reason brands tend to have to make compromises, but we didn’t stop til we got there.”

    Across cosmetic categories, consumers are interested in products free from benzene and sodium lauryl sulfate.

    Lively also talked about the “clean beauty” standard she aimed to uphold. “I wanted it to be cleaner than the products I was using with great results so I didn’t feel nervous sharing it with family. I wanted it to attempt to show how beautiful maximum sustainability can be. I wanted it to be vegan, cruelty free and formulated without sulfates, silicones, parabens, synthetic dyes etc.”

    According to NYC-based Spate, which analyzes online search data and beauty-related TikTok videos, consumers are interested in both “natural” and synthetic ingredients. However, across cosmetic categories consumers are still interested in products free from benzene and sodium lauryl sulfate.

    In an April report on top ingredients from Spate and Grant Industries, the companies noted, “Consumer interest in hair care products often underscores the importance of sought-after ingredients while also revealing those they want to avoid, like silicones ... Brands must recognize the opportunity for education and innovation in addressing consumer concerns, regardless of perceived negativity surrounding certain ingredients.”

    Naomi Bedford Dele-Tunji, marketing manager of Grant Industries, noted in the report that sustainability isn’t solely tied to natural ingredients.

    “It’s crucial to educate consumers that while natural products are often perceived as environmentally friendly, they may actually have a greater negative impact compared to synthetic ingredients derived from the lab,” she said. “Balancing product effectiveness with environmental considerations is paramount.”

    “We want to emphasize that natural isn’t always better,” she added. “It’s crucial to recognize that sometimes, natural products may not only lack superiority but could potentially be worse, particularly when considering environmental impacts and ethical sourcing ... We believe that it’s important that the focus should be on efficacy and sustainability, not solely on the natural origin of ingredients.”
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